Day 2 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Day 2 – Phakding (2,650m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

Average trekking time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderate-Hard

Waking up in an unfamiliar place in the mountains felt thrilling and invigorating. As soon as I was dressed, I stepped outside the lodge to have a look around. This little moment of zest would become a habit for me throughout the trek. Every morning, I would layer up, step out of the comfort of the lodge and brave the freezing temperature, to breathe in the cold air and look up at the sky and the mountains that surrounded me. Somehow, it gave me perspective and prepared me for the day. Perhaps Kaji’s words were manifesting in my subconscious mind, but I was accepting where I was and my journey ahead.

I was excited and scared of what lied ahead today. Prior to the trip, D and I had studied the terrain of every leg of the trek especially from Malini Kaushik’s website. We knew today’s trail would end with a 2-3km steep climb towards Namche Bazaar. After a breakfast of oats porridge, omelet and black coffee, we packed and geared up for the trek.

Chumoa / Chhumuwa

We passed through several villages – Zamfute, Benkar, Chumoa, Monjo, and then through the gate to the Sagarmatha National Park where we stopped briefly for permit verification. From the gate, the path led to a set of steps going downhill to the level of the Dudh Koshi river. Crossing a suspension bridge, we reached Jorsale where we stopped at a tea house for lunch. The trail had been easy so far, mostly flats with bits of ups and downs. After a lunch of Dhal Bhat and black tea, we readied ourselves for the toughest part of the day. From Jorsale, the path was sandy and rocky along the riverbank. There was another suspension bridge before we came to the Hillary Bridge that hung long and high above the Dudh Koshi. Once across the bridge, the path turned steep and narrow downhill. Then the slog began.

Gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park

Hillary Bridge

The first part of the terrain was sandy, rocky and steep with many switchbacks, and very dusty too. I wore a bandana today which I suitably used to protect my nose and mouth. After what seemed like an endless series of steps and switchbacks, we came to a flat rest area that was approximately halfway to Namche. There were vendors selling oranges and drinks. We were told one could catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest from here but unfortunately, today the view was obscured by clouds.

After a short rest, I asked Kaji if it would be alright if I proceeded to hike ahead by myself. He consented, seeing as the trail forward was wider, and with more gradual incline. With that, I took off at my own pace, eager to reach my destination. On the trail every now and then, a strong gust of wind would blow up dust, and I had to stop and close my eyes to prevent dust from getting into them. After plodding for an hour, I reached the Namche checkpoint. There were a few officers in the booth, but since no one stopped me, I continued on. Shortly afterwards, I reached the first tea house at lower Namche and waited for D and Kaji. It was already late afternoon and the clouds have rolled in. It was getting cold. I put on my fleece jacket and hat and waited for another 20 minutes before I finally caught them trudging up the trail.

Walking towards Namche Bazaar, I felt excited. I have read so much about this unique little town set in the shape of a semi-circle, at the foot of a hill. From pictures and literature, it mystified me – a large cluster of blue and white buildings that was a bustling town, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, where one can find ‘Starbucks’ coffee, apple pies and just about any trekking equipment one might need.


We walked passed a stupa, spinned a few prayer wheels, and walked through the stony streets towards Hotel Namche. Hotel Namche was a luxurious lodge by trek standards. Our room was big, with an attached bathroom that had hot water! The twin beds had heated mats! We didn’t know it at the time but this turned out to be the single, most luxurious thing we would have on the entire trek. The clean freak in me wasted no time attacking the shower.

Namche Bazaar, at last

Streets of Namche Bazaar

At dinner time, we met our friends from Himalayan Glacier – Susan & Graeme from Canada, Leif and Ulla from Sweden, and their guides Suresh and Bimal. One of the Sri Lankans had come down with diarrhea and they were spending the night in Jorsale.

I ordered mushroom soup and fried noodles for dinner, and devoured them as soon as they were served. I was famished from the long walk. It was only then that I noticed the others did not have the appetite and barely ate. Suresh came around to ask everyone how well we had slept the night before and how we were feeling. Though I felt great, I still wondered if I should start taking Diamox as I had read that most people started taking Diamox when they reached 3,000m. Then I decided I shouldn’t, at least not for this reason. It would be better to wait and see because I didn’t have the slightest hint of a headache and felt really good.

Later that night, it rained hale. The heated bed was a welcome comfort though it got too hot after a few hours, and I had to switch it off. D hadn’t been well since she arrived. The long climb had drained her physically.

In the middle of the night, I was roused by a faint noise that sounded like someone knocking on doors. Groggy from sleep, I wasn’t sure if it was our door or someone else’s. I got up to check when it got louder, and was surprised to find Susan at our door. She had been throwing up all night, and in her desperation to seek help, she had gone door to door to ask if anyone knew where the guides slept. I had no idea and was at a loss how to help when D turned in her sleep. I told D about Susan, and turned out she knew where the guides slept. She had asked Kaji before, and learned that the guides usually sleep near or sometimes in the dining hall. As I closed the door and went back to bed, I felt unsettled. D was sick, Susan was sick, one of the Sri Lankans was sick, Ulla mentioned stomach problems during dinner, while here I was feeling awesome. I layered up, grabbed my head lamp and went after Susan. D tagged along in spite of her condition as she thought her Hindi might come handy. We stumbled through the dining hall and soon woke up one of the workers, who went to get Kaji and Suresh. After a lengthy weighing of options, it became clear that there really wasn’t much they or anyone could do for Susan at the time, except to give her medicine and water, and advise her to get some rest.

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Next Day > Day 3 - Namche Bazaar