Friday, 19 April 2013
Day 11 – Pangboche (3,985m) to Kyangjuma (3,570m)
Average trekking time: 5-6 hours
We started earlier than usual today. On the ascent, we had
hiked from Namche, passed through Kyangjuma to Tengboche, and to Pangboche in 2
days. Today, we would take the same path and descend all the way from Pangboche
to Kyangjuma. It was going to be a long trek.
As we approached Tengboche, I felt somewhat ashamed at
myself for how little I remembered of the trail and terrain. The landscape looked
vaguely familiar. I could barely remember seeing some of the lodges in Debuche,
the distinctive stone steps and mesh of tree roots that formed the steep path
toward Tengboche. Had I been so single minded about reaching my destination
that I hadn’t bothered to look at my surroundings? I supposed at times I had,
especially after hours and sometimes days of trekking through similar terrain.
 |
| Beautiful day |
We reached Tengboche before noon. As we strolled across the field in front of the monastery, I thought nostalgically of just days ago when we hung out here to admire Everest in its glorious sunset glow.
We stopped at the Himalayan Hotel restaurant for lunch – to
‘refuel’ before we hit the long descent to Phunki Tenga. I had the most
delicious plate of fried noodles! We were the only guests in the dining hall but
then it was noon. Trekkers would already have left in the morning, and those coming
from Namche would not be here until later. A lone traveler came in and asked
for a room, and was told the lodge was fully booked for the night.
After lunch, we began the descent toward Phunki Tenga. A
week ago, the climb from Phunki Tenga to Tengboche had been steep and excrutiating,
and now we had to traverse down the same path in the opposite direction. I was
worried if Kaji would lead us down the steeper ‘Sherpa trail’ which we took on
the ascent, as I thought descending down that path would pose more danger of
slipping and falling. He didn’t. He led us down the less steep, longer, dustier
and hotter ‘tourist trail’. Even on this trail, I skidded a few times on the
loose sandy slopes when my attention waned and my mind wandered.
We stopped for some tea when we reached Phunki Tenga. After
this, the trail would come to a steep, huge climb uphill which I remembered
well. Phuri showed up just as we hit the slope. He took D’s bag but for some
reason, Kaji instructed him to walk with me. I took off at my own pace, and actually
pushed myself, for the heck of it, as the risk of AMS was no longer a concern. It
was a bit of a struggle at first, but soon I found a comfortable rhythm and
pace. My body was doing incredibly well. In a short time, Phuri and I reached
Kyangjuma.
The weather had turned by then – the clouds had rolled in
and the wind was getting stronger. I realized that D had only her water bottle
with her as Phuri had taken her bag. When I broke away from Kaji and D, none of
us had been thinking – we really shouldn’t have let Phuri take off with her
bag. But it was too late. I could only hope that it wouldn’t rain or snow
before she got here. She arrived a short while later and was very cold but
otherwise, OK.
In the afternoon, with nothing to do, we browsed the
trinkets stalls set up in front of the lodge. By now, thick clouds had
completely engulfed the sky, the fog had set in, and it was freezing. Within
minutes of staying outdoors, I felt my cold and cough worsen.
Back in the lodge, there were only 2 options – stay in the
room or stay in the dining hall. In the dining hall, several Japanese tourists were
playing cards. There was an uncovered bucket of dried yak dung sitting near the
door, next to a table. It was completely odorless, and just looked like pieces
of brown fibrous rocks. I thought it was reassuring to see the locals handle them
with bare hands. I mean, it couldn’t be hazardous if they handle it with bare
hands, right? It’s just organic fuel material. Or so I told myself.
| Previous Day > Day 10 - Dughla to Pangboche | Next Day > Day 12 - Kyangjuma to Phakding |
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