Day 3 - Namche Bazaar

Thursday, 11 April 2013

Day 3 – Namche Bazaar (3,440m) - Acclimatization Day

Average trekking time (to Everest View Hotel): 45 mins to 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy

We discussed our options for today’s acclimatization climb. Since D was still weak from the long hike yesterday, she opted for a short walk up to the army camp with Phuri, whilst I stayed with the original plan to hike up the trail to Everest View Hotel.

After breakfast, all 4 of us set out together and soon reached a fork where we parted. To my surprise, the hill climb was easier and shorter than I expected. It was like hiking up Bukit Jambul – similar gradient but 3-4 times longer. The path was dusty and made up of steep stone steps. After the last of the steps, the slope led to a meadow, above which stood the Syangboche Panorama Hotel. We stopped at the viewpoint outside the stonewall fence of the hotel. Only Mt. Everest wasn’t visible. The morning had been cloudier than usual, and layers of thick grayish clouds blocked our view. A guy with an Angry Bird beanie joined us at the spot, also waiting to catch a view of the mighty mountain. A few moments later, the clouds drifted away and for the first time on the trek and in my life, I was looking at Mt. Everest with my own eyes.

First 'live' view of Mt. Everest in my life

As I stood there looking at Mt. Everest, I felt proud and humbled, in awe but apathetic. From where I came from, not many had been to where I was, and I felt truly blessed to be there. Mt. Everest inspired awe – it is the highest point on earth, yet it is but a mountain. Why do people risk their lives to reach its summit?

Kaji interrupted my thoughts to ask if I wanted to continue on to Khunde and Khumjung, an excursion which would take 3 to 4 hours. Even Everest View Hotel was just a short distance ahead of us, but I decided this viewpoint was good and far enough. To be honest, I was lazy. I had climbed 400m from Namche to acclimate, and I had taken photos of Mt. Everest. I really wanted to spend the rest of day exploring Namche Bazaar.

Although the path downhill was very steep, Kaji went very fast, pounding his way down. I trailed behind carefully and still nearly slipped a few times on the sandy and gravelly parts. I had brought my trekking poles with me today, intending to practice hiking with them. But halfway uphill, I locked them away when they became more awkward than helpful. Though I still had them with me on the way down, I decided to go without them, if anything, to strengthen my legs and knees. I did feel the impact on my knees but they were OK, and it was so much faster.

Kaji pounding downhill

A view from above

In the afternoon, we went shopping! The streets of Namche were lined with shops selling all kinds of souvenirs and trekking paraphernalia. Colorful jacket, hats, scarves and trinkets adorned the streets. I found shopping here more relaxing and enjoyable than in Kathmandu. Here, the shopkeepers didn’t harass you nor haggle with the price too much. They typically offered a discount and if you didn’t like the reduced price, they’re OK if you didn’t buy. For afternoon tea, we stopped at a bakery for a cup of café latte and shared a slice of scrumptious apple pie.

Streets of Namche - shopping heaven!

Later, dinner was Sherpa stew, which was basically a concoction of rice, noodles, momo skin, potatoes and an assortment of vegetables in a thick broth. The Sri Lankans had arrived in Namche earlier and joined us at the dining table. It was good to see them braving through their ordeal.

As I lied down to sleep that night, I wondered about the road ahead. I decided the best way to do this was just to pray and hope for continued good health, and take it a day at a time – focus only on the day ahead and enjoy the walk. Reaching EBC would be secondary. And for tonight, I would enjoy the cozy, warm bed. 

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