Everest Base Camp Trek - How and What To Prepare Before Going

Trekking to Everest Base Camp is one of the most exciting and fulfilling things I've done in my life, and it will be for you too.

Prior to my own trip, I read dozens of blogs (most of which were written by Western travellers, and they were without doubt, very, very helpful) to prepare and learn as much as I could about the trek. Eventually I found myself looking for articles written specifically by Asians, in particular Malaysians and Singaporeans, hoping to read about the experience from someone closer to home. They were few and far between. So I am writing this to share my experience as a Malaysian woman on the Everest Base Camp Trek, and if someone finds it helpful, that'll make me happy.

I am, by no means, an expert in trekking. Before this trip, I've only trekked 3 times in my life - once to Mount Sinai (2,640 meters) in Egypt and twice to Mount Kinabalu (4,095 meters) in Sabah. All three experiences were invaluable as they gave me some inkling as to what to expect at high altitude, specifically the freezing temperature, low air pressure and risk of altitude sickness. If you've never trekked or been to a high altitude or even a cold place (below 10°C) before, I would go so far as to suggest that you do a minor trek somewhere before attempting the Everest Base Camp trek. While it doesn't require any technical climbing skill, you will need to be able to hike for hours for days, adapt to freezing temperatures, and tolerate varying degrees of discomfort, in order to complete and enjoy the trek. This trek is a considerable investment, in terms of money and time, and you will want it to be a success. Having some prior trekking experience, whilst not crucial, will certainly help.

This post is meant for those who are doing the trek for the first time, and wish to know how to prepare. I have written separate posts on what to pack and what to expect on the trek. I went in April 2013 and trekked for 14 days. The tips and lessons shared here should be taken in that context.

Everest Base Camp Trek - How and What To Prepare Before Going

1. Train  Before You Go

I am a strong advocate of training before doing this trek. You don't need to be super athletic or have any technical climbing skill, but you do need to be fit or you will have a hard time. Believe me, you will enjoy the trek much, much more if you are fit. 

If you have been doing moderate to intensive cardio exercises regularly (3-5 times a week), you should be fine. Otherwise, train; and do it at least 3-4 months before the trek, more if you've rarely exercised. The best conditioning is to hike uphills with your back pack. If you're planning to carry your own pack, practise with a 10-15kg pack. If you plan on hiring a porter, 5kg will be sufficient. I also read somewhere that swimming is a good form of training as it helps strengthen the lungs, and trains the body to work more efficiently in low oxygen environment. I trained by running, swimming and hiking up our small neighbourhood hill (Bukit Jambul) on week days, and hiking up Penang Hill on weekends, for 3 months, before the trip. These local hill treks were minuscule by comparison, but they were all I had access to, and they helped tremendously.

If you're planning to use trekking poles and you've never or rarely used them, now would be the time to get them out and practise walking with them. Do learn the right way to use them. I didn't, and found them awkward and a nuisance on the trek, and ended up stowing them away for most part of the trek. I did worry for my knees but fortunately, they were fine throughout and after the trek.

2. Group, Buddy or Solo 

Trekking with a group of friends can be fun. Friends can often motivate, provide emotional and moral support and cheer you up when you're having a bad day. But trekking with a group is not without disadvantages. The fast ones may feel frustrated for often having to wait for the slower ones, while the slower ones may feel the pressure to go faster than they are able to, thus putting themselves at risk. Individuals may downplay or even hide altitude symptoms for fear of jeopardizing the group's goal. 

Personally, I think the ideal group size is two, and not more than four, with all individuals of similar fitness level. Logistics for small groups are easier to handle, e.g. twin sharing rooms which are common on the trail. With a buddy or buddies, you are never alone and you don't have the peer pressure of a big group. There is someone to look out for you, and you can often share meals, and things like toothpaste, shampoo and such.

You can also do the trek alone. There are numerous accounts of lone female travellers who go on this trek. You'll have your guide (and porter, if you hire one) with you, and it is absolutely safe. There should be no reason why you can't do this alone, if you want to. You will be walking in the Himalayas, just you and the mountains, and have perfect moments of solitude, as close to nature as you can get.

Also, if you go with a trekking agency, they will tend to put you with other trekkers who are travelling on the same day, to form a bigger group (unless you're already going in a big group). But if you prefer, you can ask for a private group - to have a dedicated guide and porter assigned to you and your friend(s) only. With a private group, you don't have to worry about slowing the whole group down or wait for others if you're super fast. 

3. Trekking Agency or D.I.Y. 

It all depends on your experience, comfort level and desired flexibility of itinerary. The trekking agency will usually arrange an itinerary and everything else that follows, for you - accommodation in the city, airport transfers, guide, porter, domestic flights, accommodation and meals on the trek, pretty much all the nitty gritty so you don't have to worry about them, and can put all your energy and attention on the trek. It was for these reasons, and that we were inexperienced, that my friend and I chose to use a trekking agency, Himalayan Glacier. 

If you go the DIY route, you can hire your own guide, and porter if you wish, when you arrive in Kathmandu or Lukla, and make up your own itinerary. It will be up to you to negotiate the price and itinerary with the guide. Again, it all depends on your experience level and how much control you want over your itinerary and how comfortable you are to go it alone.

4. Gear and Clothing 

Learn about the season you'll be trekking in, temperatures, precipitation and such. If you're going in colder, wetter months, you may need more waterproof, winter clothing and gear. If you're going in warmer, drier months, you'll need some lighter clothes for hot weather. Regardless of the season though, it will get freezing cold in the mountains at night, especially as you go higher. I have compiled a packing list for the female trekker for the Everest Base Camp trek here. Here are some tips that I hope you will find helpful when you source for your gear.

• Tea houses on the trail are not heated. Blankets are usually provided but you will need clothing suitable for sub zero conditions for most nights, and as you approach the base camp. 
• You don't need brand new, top-end, brand name clothes and gear, just so long as they function and serve their purpose. Dress in layers to keep warm. I wore my 10 year-old Reebok track pants (with thermals underneath when it's cold) at lower altitudes and they were great. But if you have the budget, by all means, knock yourself out (with the shopping) :)
• Pretty much everything and anything you will need on the trek, from brand names like North Face, Marmot and Mountain Hardware, to fake knock-offs and generic products, can be purchased in Thamel or Namche, if you can't find them at home. But if you plan to shop, you may want to arrive a few days ahead of your scheduled trek. 
• Down jackets and sleeping bags can be rented from stores in Thamel for 1-2 US dollars a day. If the trekking agency states that 'down jacket and sleeping bag are provided', it can simply mean that the rental for these items are already included in the trip package. Using these rented items may seem repulsive but you get used to them on the trek, along with other gross things :) Just don't think about them, and enjoy where you are. 
• Probably the only crucial items you should have well in advanced are your hiking shoes. If you're buying new shoes, do break them in 3-4 months ahead. 
• I would also advise that you bring your medicines and vitamins from home as what you get in Nepal can be vastly different from what you are familiar with. Guides from trekking agencies usually carry a medicine kit with them, but would you trust them to medicate you? Your choice, but I erred on the side of caution and brought my own kit. 
• If you plan on buying things from eBay or online sites, plan ahead as delivery can sometimes take up to a month or more.

5. Water & Water Bottles 

You will need to make a decision with regards to drinking water before you start the trek. You can buy bottled water all the way on the trail, or drink local water. Bottled water costs more as you go higher, and then there is the issue of pollution and proper disposal of plastic bottles on your conscience. Local water is generally not safe for foreigners as it may contain pathogens that foreigners are not immune to, but you can safely drink it after it is properly treated/disinfected. So if you are planning to drink local water, you should study and choose your preferred method of treating the water. Popular methods include water purification tablets and the Steripen.

• Steripen is an expensive but innovative product. It uses ultraviolet (UV) light to deactivate microorganisms in the water. The water is immediately drinkable, and its taste unaffected. It is small, light, portable and runs on batteries. The only inconveniences that I observed are that it should only be used with a wide mouthed bottle, like Nalgene bottles, and on 1 litre of water at a time. If you're carrying a hydration pack, you'll need to treat the water, one litre at a time, in a wide mouthed bottle, and then pour it into the hydration pack. Also, it runs on batteries, so you might want to bring extra batteries, or even carry some purification tablets as backup, just in case. Personally, I thought that was troublesome. But if you travel a lot to places that require water to be treated, and like to carry 1-litre Nalgene-type bottles, the Steripen would be a great investment. Do study the proper usage and care of the product to decide if it suits you. 
• There are several types of water purification tablets - iodine, chlorine, silver ion/chlorine dioxide, to name a few. They usually require 30 minutes to a few hours of treatment time before the water is safe to drink. Some leave a taste in the water. I used the Micropur chlorine dioxide tablets that I got from pharmacies in Thamel and Namche. I didn't notice any taste but if you do, you can try masking it with Tang or flavoured oral rehydration salts or vitamin tablets. Do learn about their pros and cons, and possible side effects before making your choice. 

Many trekkers swear by hydration packs. I've never owned nor used one, so I can't say much about it. I have always carried water in 1-litre bottles on my treks. Nalgene bottles are very popular on the trail, but really, any water bottle that you normally use, will do just fine. For this trek, I brought my old Sigg bottle, for hot water, and my trusty old Tupperware bottle. You will only ever need two 1-litre water bottles. Use them alternately, and you won't run out of water - as soon as one is empty, fill it up, drop a purification tablet in and while waiting for it to disinfect, drink from the other.

6. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) 

It is imperative that you learn about Acute Mountain Sickness, and are fully aware of its symptoms and dangers before you go on this trip. On our first night in Phakding, we heard news of a trekker who had descended and had severe AMS. He passed away the next morning. It is a fact that people die from AMS, and that anyone is susceptible, but there are ways to avoid, like proper acclimatization. There are plenty of articles and websites that provide valuable and in-depth information on AMS that you can refer to. Here are a few that I like:

• http://www.basecampmd.com/expguide/ams.shtml
• http://everestbasecamptrekguide.com/high-altitude-sickness/
• http://www.high-altitude-medicine.com/AMS-medical.html

Also as important, in my opinion, is awareness of the behaviour of symptoms denial. Denial of symptoms is very common among trekkers and often leads to worsening AMS conditions. Recognizing the symptoms and admitting to having them require two different sets of motivation. I think it is important to think about this before going on the trek, when the mind is still rational and judgement not yet clouded by vested interests.

7. Insurance 

You should have travel insurance that includes emergency air lift. Some agencies will not take you if you don't have this. Reputable insurance companies should be familiar with this type of trekking activity and offer adequate coverage. I chose the AIG Chartis Travel Guard (through my insurance agent), while my friend used WorldNomads.com. Do make sure that the package includes coverage for trekking to 5,364m above sea level, and emergency air lift.

8. Flight 
If possible, arrive in Kathmandu at least 1-2 days ahead of your scheduled trek. This allows you some time to get settled, purchase last minute items, familiarize with local ways and cultures, and if you're coming from a very different time zone, recover from jet lag. Nepal is only 2:15 hours behind Malaysia, so jet lag should not pose a problem for Malaysians. 

Also, you should book your return flight at least 3-4 days after the scheduled end of the trek, because flights from/to Lukla are known for delays, sometimes up to days.

9. Visa

Malaysians will need visa to enter Nepal. You can get visa on arrival, so there is no need to visit the embassy or apply before the trip. The airline crew will hand out visa application forms, or you can get the form upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport. 

Have enough cash in US dollars and a passport sized photograph ready at the immigration clearance/visa processing counter. You can check the latest visa fee and requirements from the Nepalese embassy or Nepal Immigration website. It was 40 US dollars for a 30-day tourist visa when I went.

10. Bring Cash 

Bring enough cash with you. You can withdraw money from banks and ATMs in Kathmandu, and/or exchange US dollars for Nepalese Rupees (NPR) from money changers there. I brought US dollars as I couldn't find any money changer in Penang that carried NPRs. Most of the transactions that I did in Kathmandu and on the trail were in NPRs. Some merchants accept US dollars but be prepared to be charged higher exchange rates the further away you are from the city.

11. Cost / Budget

The cost varies, depending on whether you go with a trekking agency or DIY, in a group or with a buddy or alone. I think it is reasonable to expect to spend 6-8k ringgit, more if you need to buy most of your clothing and gear. This is a rough breakdown of my expenses for the trip (all in ringgit):

• Everest Base Camp Trek (managed by trekking agency) ~ 5K 
• Flights (Penang-KL-Kathmandu and return) ~ 1.7K
• Expenses on the trek (incl. shopping, tips for guide & porter) ~ 1K
• Buy clothes and gear before the trek ~ 1K 

All in all, it came to about 9K for me, for this 14-day trek.

12. Period Control 

This one is specifically for the ladies. If you're a guy, move along.

The trek to Everest Base Camp typically ranges from 10 to 17 days. So there is a chance that you will get your period during your trip. I consulted my Obgyn, and was prescribed Norethisterone pill to delay my period. Having been on the trek and experienced the toilet facilities and hygiene conditions, I was glad that I made the decision to take the pills. I really would not want to have to deal with my period out there. If you decide to take this measure, please consult your doctor. It is a good idea to do this 2-3 months before the trek, in case the method that is prescribed to you requires time to take effect.

Last But Not Least, Be Mentally Prepared
Trekking the Himalayas is not a walk in the park. It is physically hard. You will be tired and cold most of the time, and have to tolerate some levels of discomfort. Accommodation and amenities at the tea houses are very basic; often you get a room with just beds and blankets, with common toilets. Expect to go for days without a shower or a fresh change of clothes. Your diet will be different. If you're a non-vegetarian, expect to go meatless for 2 weeks. Be prepared to manage health issues like headaches, coughs, colds, diarrhea, food poisoning and muscle cramps, and at worse, altitude sickness. These are just some of the things to expect on the trek, and it is best to know these in advanced, and mentally and physically prepare so you don't feel disappointed or worse, shocked, when you are there.

That said, you will be walking on one of the most famous mountain treks in the world, and be rewarded with stunning views everyday. So keep an open mind, and enjoy the trek!

Related posts:
Everest Base Camp Trek - Packing List for The Female Trekker
Everest Base Camp Trek - What To Expect During The Trek