Everest Base Camp Trek - What To Expect During The Trek

Trekking to Everest Base Camp is a trip of a lifetime. Despite all preparations, it is hard to know what to expect until you are actually there. The sights, smells, tastes and sounds of the Himalayas can only truly be experienced first hand. Regardless, it is still important to know some things about the trek in advanced, so you can be best prepared. When I was doing my share of research before my trip, I actually refrained from looking at too many photographs because I didn't want to feel like I've seen it all before I even stepped foot in Nepal! The trick is to learn enough to be safe, but not so much that you take the sense of discovery out of the trip.

That said, these are some of the tips and lessons that I learned on the trek that I think are important for those who are going for the first time. I went in April 2013, and trekked for 14 days from Lukla to Everest Base Camp.

Everest Base Camp Trek - Tips & What To Expect During The Trek

1. Go Slow

The air is thinner in the mountains, and it gets thinner as you go higher. You'll find that you tire and go out of breath faster than you normally do, which is perfectly normal. Go at your own pace, don't overexert yourself at any time, and don't succumb to any pressure to go faster than you could manage. Going too fast and overexertion often lead to altitude sickness. If you must stop to catch your breath, stop to catch your breath. Or just stop to enjoy the view, and snap some photos. Remember that this is not a race. Your loved ones at home won't care if you break records for the fastest time to reach anywhere. They will want you home safe and healthy. 

What I like to do is to go very slowly on the uphills, and when there is an easy, flat stretch, I go a little faster to make up for time. Be very careful at all times though, especially when going downhills, as some paths are steep, sandy and slippery. If you have trekking poles, use them for balance and support, and to ease some pressure off those knees. Listen to your instincts when you're out there. It is often the voice that will save your life. 

2. Drink Plenty Of Water 

Drink lots of water when you are on the trek. Staying hydrated is one of the keys to avoiding altitude sickness, and keeping your energy levels up. Before starting the trek, you should already have a decision with regards to drinking water. I've written about water purification methods in this post - How and What To Prepare Before The Trek. Here are some tips for water during the trek:

• Most of the time, and especially as you get nearer to the base camp, the water you're carrying will be very cold and unappetizing. Take small sips if it helps, but you must drink regardless. 
• You should drink at least 4-5 litres of water throughout the day, to stay sufficiently hydrated in the mountains. 
• I find that having a 'water drinking strategy' helps to ensure I drink as much as is recommended. I drink 1 litre in the morning between waking up and starting the trek, 1-2 litres while trekking, 1 litre in afternoon, and 1 litre at night. 
• It is a good idea to drink some water at night too. If you happen to wake up at night, drink some water. 
• At higher altitudes, I sleep with my water bottle. This way I get drinkable water at night and first thing in the morning instead of icy, cold water. 
• Flavoured oral rehydration salts help to mask the taste of chemically disinfected (i.e. purification tablets) water, while replenishing your body with lost fluids and salts.
• Some people advise against consuming caffeine, but there is no way I can get through 14 days without coffee. I drink a cup every morning :)
• Don't drink any alcohol on the trek. Save that for your last night in Lukla, to celebrate!

My good old Tupperware and Sigg bottles, with a cup of hot Himalayan tea

3. Eat Well & Eat Smart

Kathmandu is a melting pot of cuisines. There are so many wonderful restaurants and eateries that serve fantastically delicious food, from local Nepali and Tibetan dishes, to western, middle-eastern, far-eastern and more. The national dish is Dhal Bhat, which is basically dhal rice. On the trek, the menu is much more basic and simplistic, and often a mix of local, eastern and western staples. For breakfast, you have a choice of eggs and toast, breads, potatoes, instant noodles, oatmeal, muesli, cereal and such. For lunch and dinner, a choice of soups, pasta, pizza, breads, sandwiches, dhal bhat, asian style fried rice and noodles, Sherpa stew, Tibetan thukpa and momo, to name a few.

Thukpa

Momo (dumplings) and garlic soup

Here are a few tips with regards to food on the trek:

• Be realistic, and don't expect 5-star gourmet creations at those altitudes. Some tea houses serve respectably good food, while others are mediocre. The menus are mostly the same everywhere, so it does get a little repetitive after a while. In any case, after hours of trekking, your body will need food to refuel and recharge. Eat for energy if not enjoyment :) 
• Don't eat meat on the trek. Due to the no-killing policy in Sagarmatha National Park, and the faith of Buddhists who inhabit the area that prohibit killing of living beings, meat and eggs are brought in from Kathmandu, and carried all the way up the trail. This means the higher up the trail, the longer the meat has been around. Eggs are generally safe to eat, but meat is questionable. The best is to go on a vegetarian diet. I played safe and didn't even try the cheese. 
• Choose safe and healthy foods, even though choices are limited. Now is not the time to go on a gourmet adventure. I lived mostly on toast and eggs or oatmeal for breakfast, and dhal bhat or vegetarian fried rice/noodles for lunch and dinner, much like my staple at home (except for the lack of meat and fish. Fish is virtually non-existent on the trail, and is rare even in Kathmandu). I thought these dishes were great sources of carb, protein, fibre and minerals for the body. Unless you're a picky eater or a hardcore carnivore, Malaysians shouldn't have any problem with the food. 
• If you crave something 'tasty', they have instant noodles. Not quite the same as Maggi Mee, but still :)
• Don't waste food. Try to order what you can eat and are able to finish. It's OK if you can't finish because of lack of appetite (which happens to many trekkers), just don't order a feast unless you plan to eat all the food. The servings can be quite huge, and if you're a small eater like me, you won't be able to finish. I learned that very early on the trek, and eventually requested for every meal portion to be reduced or shared. 
• Bring and take your vitamins and supplements on the trek. The cold weather, changes in diet, lack of fresh fruits and physical demands of the trek will put a huge strain on your body. A lot of trekkers also bring energy foods like power bars and gels, and chocolate bars. If you go slow, drink lots of water, eat and rest well, you shouldn't need them; but it is nice to snack or munch on something once in a while. 
• Bring small, light non-perishable treats from home, like 1-2 packets of maggi mee, ikan bilis goreng, bak kua, asam boi. I so wished I had brought some asam boi with me when I was up there. 

4. Expect Basic Accommodation  

Don't expect 5-star accommodations, though at lower altitudes, there are some pretty nice hotels and lodges. Our hotel in Namche (Hotel Namche), while not 5-star, was very cozy, comfortable and came with hot shower and heated beds! Some lodges in the Debuche area look very nice too. As you go higher, the dwellings become simpler and rooms get smaller. It is normal for rooms to be furnished with just 2 single beds, and nothing else. The beds are not always comfortable. Pillows and blankets are usually provided, and you can request for extras, subject to availability. There is no central heating, so it gets freezing cold at night which is why it is crucial to have a down sleeping bag with you.

Our room in Phakding

Dining hall at a tea house in Lobuche

The dining area is usually warmed in the evenings and nights, with a single burning stove in the middle of the hall. At higher altitudes where the land is barren, dried Yak dung is burned to fuel the stove, which the locals also use to boil water in kettles. It is common to find trekkers and locals congregate around the stove for warmth, and to share stories.

Toilets are one of the biggest challenges for a lot of trekkers. Western-style sitting toilets are virtually non-existent after Namche. Most toilets in tea houses are the squatting type, and there are hole-in-the-ground toilets as well. Water is usually supplied in a large tub, with a pail for 'manual' flushing. If you need to go to the bathroom while on the road, just find a spot behind some rocks and do your business. Don't let these things gross you out. It's a normal part of life outdoors and in the mountains. It's important to observe the strictest personal hygiene here, e.g. clean/wash your hands often (with drinking water if you must, or wet wipes), sanitize and keep your hands away from your face.

Sinks and showers with running water are also a rarity, as water in tanks and pipes become frozen at night. The only showers I had on the trail were at Namche and on the last day in Lukla. In between, I went for 10 days without one. Bring lots of baby wipes for cleaning up. You can also buy a bucket of hot water from the tea house for cleaning. I brushed my teeth with my drinking water, and learned to do it with only 1-2 capfuls at a time :)

5. Rest Well, Sleep Well
A lot of people have trouble sleeping at altitude. Reduced oxygen levels in the blood can cause breathing instability which leads to sleep disturbances and frequent awakenings. From what I've read and understood, this is not related to altitude sickness, and is quite normal. So if you happen to awaken at night, even several times, don't panic and just go back to sleep (drink some water too). It is important to get sufficient rest and sleep every night, so you have energy to carry on the following day. One tip that my Sherpa guide shared was to not take naps during the day, and save all the tiredness and sleep for the night time.

6. Watch Out For Altitude Sickness

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a natural concern for trekkers, as many get it, including fit and healthy people. The key to avoiding AMS is proper acclimatization, that is, increase altitude gradually. Trekking agencies and experienced guides will usually arrange an itinerary that allows you to acclimatize sufficiently, typically with altitude gains of not more than 300 metres a day, along with days of 'climb high, sleep low' strategy. This is why treks to Everest Base Camp take around 14 days.

The general rules to avoiding altitude sickness are:

• Increase altitude gradually; climb high and sleep low
• Drink lots of water and fluids
• Go slow; don't overexert yourself
• Don't ascend higher if you have mild symptoms
• Descend immediately if symptoms worsen

Some people take Acetazolamide/Diamox at the onset of very mild symptoms, while others take it prophylactically to avoid getting it altogether. I think you really have to think about your choices carefully. While taking Diamox may help you avoid AMS, it is not without side effects. Tingly extremities, risk of dehydration and frequent urination are some common ones. That said, I totally get people who decide to take it prophylactically, as after having invested so much in the trip, the side effects seem but a minor inconvenience in the face of reaching the goal. It almost gives an illusion of guarantee. However, I think it is important to be rational and clear-headed about this. If you show no symptoms and actually feel good at altitude, shouldn't you listen to and trust your body, and give it a chance to adapt naturally? It would be much, much safer, healthier and more rewarding to reach the goal without medicating yourself unnecessarily. Whichever route you choose though, it should be a well-informed and educated decision.

In the event that you do show symptoms of altitude sickness, admit that you have them and tell your guide immediately, however mild the symptoms may be. Denial and hiding of symptoms have the potential to lead to worsening conditions. Don't immediately jump to conclusions and assume that the trek is over for you without talking to your guide first. Circumstances permitting, it is possible to arrange alternatives, like perhaps an extra rest/acclimatization day or even a short descent for recovery. Granted, this is harder if you're travelling with a group, but the point is to discuss openly and honestly with your guide and travel companions, and keep an open mind. 

I was one of the lucky ones who did not get AMS symptoms, and completed the trek without taking Diamox. I did get a mild buzzing headache when I arrived in Dughla but it went away the next day. My appetite was also good throughout the trek and I slept well on most nights. So I can't really share any first hand experience of AMS. This, and the fact that I am not a medical expert, compels me to refrain from writing in great detail about AMS symptoms and treatment. So please do your own due diligent study on this subject. Here are a few links that you may find helpful:

• http://www.climbing-high.com/acute-mountain-sickness.html
• http://peakfreaks.com/ams.htm
• http://www.drwisetravel.com/alt-sickness.html

7. Beware The Khumbu Cough 

You will notice at higher altitudes that almost everyone has some form of cough. The locals call it the "Khumbu Cough". It is caused by the cold, dry and dusty air that irritates the bronchial passages, and exacerbated by increased breathing rate that results from the physical exertion of trekking. The best way to avoid is to cover your nose and mouth when you breathe. You can use a balaclava, neck gaiter, scarf, bandanna or buff, which serves to protect your nose and mouth from dust whilst heating and moisturizing the air you breathe.  

I developed the Khumbu Cough on my way back to Dughla after leaving Everest Base Camp, likely from prolonged exposure to the cold, dry and dusty air. I took Strepsils to soothe the throat and relieve the cough, but it persisted for days and only started to ease after I returned to Kathmandu. The cough itself is not life threatening but it is very annoying!

8. Avoid Sun & Wind Burn

The sun and the cold wind in the mountains can be brutal, and it is easy to get burned if you are not careful. To avoid sun burn, always put on sun block and lip balm before you start trekking. At lower altitudes where it isn't too cold, it is a good idea to wear a brimmed sun hat to shield your head and eyes. Sunglasses with 100% UV protection will serve to protect your eyes from UV rays, glare and snow blindness. Wind burn is caused by prolonged exposure to cold wind. To avoid getting wind burn, wear a balaclava or buff, or pull up a neck gaiter or scarf over your cheeks and nose.  

9. Remember Safety First, At All Times

The trail is generally sandy and dusty at lower altitudes, and becomes rocky as you go higher. Be very careful, go slowly and watch where you place your footing, especially when going uphills and downhills. There were several times when I very nearly slipped on loose sand and gravel. Use your trekking poles for balance and support. 

Whenever you come head to head with any animal - yaks, mules, horses, or when they come from behind, stop immediately and give way to the animals. Always stand on the side of the mountain and never on the side of the cliff as you risk getting accidentally nudged off the cliff. I also noticed that these animals also know to seek out good footing, and sometimes they head straight toward where you are standing! Don't panic, and just quickly and steadily move out of the way.

Give way to porters

Give way to yaks

Equally important is to respectably give way to porters and locals. These people carry incredible loads up and down the trail, from trekkers' luggage and supplies, to building material like timber, steel and doors. Even with 30-80 kilos on their backs, they often move much faster than us. So when you encounter them, get out of the way and let them pass.

10. Enjoy Yourself
Last but certainly not least, have a good time! Whether you are on a holiday or chasing a life long dream, you will be on one of the highest mountain ranges in the world, surrounded by epic landscapes and breathtaking views. The ascent is often harder not just physically, but mentally more stressful with the worry of AMS and the goal of reaching Everest Base Camp constantly on the mind. The descent is much more relaxing without these worries. Regardless, take the time to smell the roses (or more like animal dung, literally :)), appreciate where you are and enjoy the trek!

Stunning views everywhere and everyday; Mount Ama Dablam in the background

Everest Base Camp

The most important thing on the trek is your health and safety. Take care of your body and mental well-being. Eat well and eat smart, drink lots of water, rest well, go slow, watch your footing, stay mentally alert, listen to your instincts and enjoy where you are!

"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves."

Sir Edmund Hillary

Related posts:
Everest Base Camp Trek - Packing List for The Female Trekker
Everest Base Camp Trek - How and What To Prepare